I first discovered Yoshikazu Yamagata when I saw his amazing sketches in Fashion Illustration by Fashion Designers (which is a great book, by the way**). He uses fashion to illustrate a story which means his fashions are like nothing else you've seen. Even the settings of his photographs are unique and imaginative.
Sketch from The Everyone's New Clothes
images from A Long Story
**Check out the Betsey Johnson Drawings in this book. I worked on them when I worked there. And by "worked on them" I basically mean colored them in on the computer.